Autumn in Spello is magnificent! Although the days are shorter there is still plenty of sunshine around and there is a feeling of mellowness in the air. It is still great sitting out in the panoramic garden at Bar Bonci and enjoying a glass of Prosecco.
This beautiful mountain hamlet is well worth a visit. The pristine spring water was used to power a series of water mills to sustain a viable cloth making industry. It is only a thirty minute drive from Spello through scenic mountain countryside.
Easter Sunday procession; view from our window.
The beautiful primavera natural environment around Spello. No more words necessary!
Above is the largest of the ‘Mortari’ (sink holes) on Mt Subasio. Approximately 50-60 metres deep it is caused by incessant water erosion.
I have just been recommended an Umbrian dolce specialità, la Torta Rocciata - delizioso!! especially in Bar Bonci in their beautiful garden.
Love it or not this is the finished Piazza Republica. The statue featuring St Frances returning from war in a very fatigued state on his equally fatigued horse was originally conceived by the Spellani artist and sculptor Norberto. The white tree beside the statue, when lit up at night, illuminates the exhausted pair.
Ciao a tutti!
Now in Umbria it is wild asparagus season but it is difficult to find out the secret places from the local Spellani who are happy to show their treasure and share their recipes but not their hard found stalks! Creamy asparagus risotto simply requires butter, olive oil, a small onion, parsley, lemon, white wine, grated pecorino and of course the slim and tender asparagus spears with cannoli rice.
The broad beans at this time of year are so tender I just sauté them in butter and olive oil for a couple of minutes. Delicious with anything but particularly with roast porchetta and apple sauce.
La Piazza Republica has undergone major reconstruction during the last year. I don’t think I have ever recovered from the day they cut down the beautiful tall trees that provided so much needed shade for the hot summers and for those visitors that had made it that far up the hill. However I am trying to look at the positives and below you can see that there is a good attempt at providing greenery, limited shade and seating for the weary and for people watching.
Spello is becoming more beautiful each time we visit. During the next week I will share with you some wonderful new Spello sights. The most amazing of which is the Villa di Mosaici, dating back as far as 27 BC, which had its inaugural opening this year on 24 March.
Above you can see the floor mosaics in the Hall of Birds as well as the remnants of two of the walls. Below you can see an image reconstruction of the Hall of Birds as it would have been in Roman times.
Almost 500 sq metres have been excavated revealing twenty rooms, ten of which have decorative floors, the most remarkable being in the Banquet Hall which in its centre portrays a wine pouring scene (see below).
Stay tuned for more sightseeing wonders,
Ciao,
Sue
Having just spent a few days in Bologna I thought it worth sharing on this site. It is a very quick and easy train journey with only one change at Florence (a total of 3.5 hours). Bologna is a very old and beautiful city of bright ochre and terracotta coloured buildings (and contrasting dark green shutters) and boasts the oldest university in the western world. Close by are the cities of Modena and Parma also known for their culinary delights.
Basilica of San Luca - 3.5 km porticoed walk
Bologna has a tower that reportedly leans more than the Leanng Tower of Pisa
beautifully porticoed streets
La Quintana at Foligno was a spectacular event with knights on horseback and people wearing flamboyant baroque costumes. The team that won the lancing competition, 'Badia', didn't miss a single ring and competed in the fastest time. To add to their delight was the fact that this quarter had not won La Quintana for 34 years.
La Quintana at Foligno was a spectacular event with knights on horseback and people wearing flamboyant baroque costumes. The team that won the lancing competition, 'Badia', didn't miss a single ring and competed in the fastest time. To add to their delight was the fact that this quarter had not won La Quintana for 34 years.
It is exciting to see the progress taking place in Piazza Republica. The cobbled paving is proceeding at a rapid rate and areas of grass provide a much needed contrast to the neutral stone. Seven established olive trees will apparently soon be installed and the restored fountain will be back in place hopefully by the end of the year. Photos will be forthcoming when the heavy machinery is out of the way.
Meanwhile on a recent evening trip to Foligno we discovered a very festive and traditional side to this often tourist- underrated town. Within the medieval walls in the historic centre since the end of August the townspeople are celebrating 'La Giostra Della Quintana', the ancient jousting tournament dating back to 1448 and reintroduced in 1946 as a modern festival. The current ten different quarters of the city (each with a distinctive flag) compete twice a year (in June and September) to win the honour for their 'rione'. Prior to the main event the old tavernas and locandas are opened up and traditional food is prepared and served by locals dressed in medieval costume. In addition there are drumming bands and a parade featuring colourful and flamboyant costumes.
On Sunday Adrian and I have 'buoni posti' at the stadium to cheer on the Rione Ammanniti team. Stay tuned.
We visited the archeological site at Villa Sant' Anna today and were impressed with the size and scope of the project which is going to be a major draw card for Spello. The painstaking work to expose and clean the tiny mosaic pieces is revealing beautiful roman flooring.
This notice outside my favourite Spello boutique made me stop and think. Paola and her team make terrific jewellery, bags and clothing with natural sustainable materials and loving skill.
La Bottega Degli Intrecci
My husband Adrian with our daughter at her wedding, wearing a beautiful linen suit and shirt bought at Paola's second shop selling menswear.
Today Italians celebrate Liberation Day, the defeat of Mussolini's pro Nazi government and the courage of the Italian Resistance.
On Palm Sunday people in Spello are seen holding olive branches instead of the traditional palm branch to honour the occasion and as a sign of peace. I love to see the olive tree growing at the top of the tower in Porto Consolare, an emblem of this region.
Spring has sprung in Spello! It's so good to be back at my favourite cafe garden, Bar Bonci. Letizia still remembers my usual coffee order and its wonderful to hear her laughter throughout the day at Casa Catena just across the road. Primavera seems to bring out the very best in the local Spellani!
Arrived in Spello yesterday and shopped today for local produce at the little supermarket just a few steps from home. I couldn't resist the local mozzarella, fragrant tomatoes, plumpest strawberries and a bottle of the local limoncello, and that wasn't all. And it was cheaper than the supermercato at the bottom of the hill!
